Clutch housing bearing removal

If you ever plan on having your clutch cover electroplated, or powdercoated, you'll have to remove the 2 small bearing races that support the acuator lever. You may even want to do this in preparation for powder-coating too, just in case they get contaminated.

The first step was to find the ugliest piece of cloth to put on your bench :-) Then 'machine' an old nut down to a diameter that was smaller than the casing hole, but larger than the internal diameter of the bearing. This was mostly a trial and error effort, because I found it difficult to measure in-situ. In the end, it turns out to be around 10.5mm, but I'd suggest you just sneak up on it rather than aim for an absolute measurement. My 'machining' was no more than sticking the nut on a bolt, setting that in my drill chuck, then going over it with a file until I got it to the right size. Crude but effective in this case. Thinking about it now, you might be able to just round off the end of the bolt, but you may end up with something smaller than the desired diameter?

You may have to knock the corners off the head of the bolt to slip it through the holes

I tried this procedure on three spare clutch covers, and found you can start with either the inner or outer bearing.Next step was threading the 'drift' down on a 6 x 95mm bolt (I used high tensile just in case the thread stripped), and feeding it through both bearings and attaching a large enough washer to cover the outer hole, then threading the nut on. Just tighten the nut and you may or may not hear a crack as the bearing starts to move. Keep winding it out and Bob's yer uncle. Disassemble the 'tool' and remove the bearing.

I started with the inner bearing, but you can do either first.

Make sure you have a strong washer that covers the opening.

Out it pops, easy as pie. Pull the whole lot apart to remover the bearing ...

For the outer race, you will need to add something like a socket as a spacer to give you enough room to completely remove the bearing, otherwise it will stop as it comes into contact with the washer if it's flush with the casing.

... and move on to the next one.

You'll have to use some sort of spacer to pull this one out completly

And just for reference, this is the part number: