SUPER BOL D'OR    page 6

So, as it stands at the moment, I have the F2 front wheel sitting in the RR forks, giving me a 17" wheel, mechanical speedo drive, and 4-
pot calipers. That's a win I reckon.

At the back, I have the F2 swinger all fitted and linkages ready to be welded in place, and enough tubing left over to brace the frame in all the common spots.

I plan to put one of the flush-mount tank fillers on a spare tank when I find a reasonably-priced
donor, and I'm leaning towards a pair of streetfighter-type headlights between the forks. But that might change :wink:

Well, it seems I may have been a bit premature in measuring the F2 wheel/disc combo in the RR forks. They fit just fine with the new spacers, but since I've temporarily got the brakes fitted and bled, it seems the rotor is 20mm to short in diameter to take full advantage of the brake pad surface area. A quick double-check of my measurements reveals I have measured the *rear* rotor of a VF1000 that was fitted to an F1 rim, instead of the F2 rotors. The VF is 295mm, the same as the RRs, but the F2s are 275mm.

I have to hunt around for a second VF rotor now, but for the time being I'll press on. One issue will be the pattern on the rotor won't reverse.

In the meantime, I've worked out the steering damper mounting. My problem was (as we all know) the brackets for attaching the device at either end can't be had for love nor money, so I've had to improvise.

Step 1: drill and tap some rod to accept the 8mm thread.

Step 2: test and measure for the frame mounting point, then drill a hole through both sides of one of the gussets to accept the rod.

Step 3: put you mock-up motor/tank on to gauge final clearances, then tack the 'inside' end of the rod.

Step 4: zip-tie the fork end in place while you wait for your 'real' welder to attach that end later, at the same time he finish-welds the 'outside' face of the rod :wink:



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